Kitchen

Grandmother's Kitchen

Food is the easiest way into a culture. Family recipes from every region, each with its local names, festival sweets and the Ayurvedic way of eating with the seasons, written for kitchens abroad.

Recipes

Family Recipes

Tested, simple versions of dishes from Indian homes, with ingredients you can find in most Indian stores abroad.

Karnataka, Maharashtra, North India · Sankranti

Ellu Bella and Til-Gul

Sesame and jaggery for Sankranti: ellu bella in Kannada, til-gul in Marathi, til ladoo in the north

  • 20 min
  • Serves 10 small bags
Ingredients and method

Ingredients

  • 1 cup white sesame seeds
  • 1 cup roasted peanuts, skins removed
  • 1 cup dry coconut (copra), in small pieces
  • 1 cup jaggery cubes
  • ½ cup roasted gram (hurigadale)

Method

  1. Dry-roast the sesame on low heat until it smells nutty, then cool.
  2. Cut the copra and jaggery into small, even pieces.
  3. Mix everything in a large bowl.
  4. Pack into small bags with a sugar-candy figure (sakkare acchu) if you have one.

Share it with the words "Ellu bella thindu olle maathaadi" or "Tilgul ghya, god god bola": eat sesame and jaggery, and speak sweetly. For til ladoo, melt the jaggery to a soft ball and roll the sesame into it.

Karnataka and Tamil Nadu · Sankranti, Pongal

Sakkarai Pongal

Sweet pongal: sakkarai pongal in Tamil, sakkare pongal in Kannada, chakkera pongali in Telugu

  • 40 min
  • Serves 4
Ingredients and method

Ingredients

  • ½ cup rice
  • 2 tbsp moong dal
  • 2½ cups water
  • ¾ cup grated jaggery
  • 3 tbsp ghee
  • 10 cashews, a few raisins
  • ¼ tsp cardamom powder, a pinch of edible camphor (optional)

Method

  1. Lightly roast the moong dal, then pressure-cook rice and dal with water until very soft.
  2. Melt the jaggery in ¼ cup water and strain.
  3. Mash the rice and dal, add the jaggery syrup and cook for 5 minutes.
  4. Fry cashews and raisins in ghee and pour over, with cardamom.

On Pongal day it is cooked in a new pot until it boils over, while everyone calls "Pongalo Pongal".

All India · Diwali

Besan Laddu

Gram flour sweets

  • 35 min
  • Serves 12 laddus
Ingredients and method

Ingredients

  • 1 cup besan (gram flour)
  • ⅓ cup ghee
  • ½ cup powdered sugar
  • ¼ tsp cardamom powder
  • Chopped almonds or pistachios

Method

  1. Roast the besan in ghee on low heat, stirring all the time, for 15 to 20 minutes until golden and fragrant.
  2. Cool until warm.
  3. Mix in sugar, cardamom and nuts.
  4. Shape into balls while still warm.

The slow roast is the secret. Raw besan tastes bitter, so be patient.

North India · Holi

Thandai

Spiced festive milk

  • 15 min + soaking
  • Serves 4
Ingredients and method

Ingredients

  • 2 tbsp almonds
  • 1 tbsp each melon seeds, poppy seeds and fennel
  • 8 black peppercorns, 6 cardamoms
  • 1 litre cold milk
  • 4 tbsp sugar
  • A few saffron strands, rose petals

Method

  1. Soak the nuts, seeds and spices for 2 hours.
  2. Grind to a smooth paste with a little milk.
  3. Stir into cold milk with sugar and saffron, and strain.
  4. Chill and serve with rose petals.

A cooling drink for the first warm days of spring.

Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, Karnataka, Maharashtra · Ugadi

Ugadi Pachadi and Bevu Bella

Neem and jaggery: ugadi pachadi in Telugu, bevu bella in Kannada, kadunimb in Marathi

  • 10 min
  • Serves Whole family
Ingredients and method

Ingredients

  • A few tender neem flowers
  • 2 tbsp grated jaggery
  • 1 tsp tamarind pulp
  • A little raw mango, finely chopped
  • A pinch of salt and pepper

Method

  1. Mix everything together.
  2. Offer it at the altar first.
  3. Everyone eats a small spoon before breakfast.

Six tastes in one spoon, for all the experiences the new year will bring. Neem flowers can be bought dried online.

Karnataka, Andhra, Tamil Nadu, Maharashtra · Ugadi, festivals

Obbattu and Puran Poli

Sweet stuffed flatbread: obbattu or holige in Kannada, bobbatlu in Telugu, poli in Tamil, puran poli in Marathi

  • 1 hour + resting
  • Serves 10
Ingredients and method

Ingredients

  • 1 cup chana dal
  • 1 cup jaggery
  • ¼ tsp cardamom
  • 1 cup maida or fine wheat flour
  • A pinch of turmeric, salt
  • ½ cup oil, ghee to serve

Method

  1. Make a soft dough with flour, turmeric, salt, water and plenty of oil. Rest for 2 hours.
  2. Cook the dal until soft but not mushy, drain, and cook with jaggery until thick. Grind with cardamom.
  3. Wrap a ball of filling in a little dough, flatten thin on oiled paper.
  4. Cook on a hot tava on both sides and serve with ghee or milk.

Save the dal water for saaru, rasam or katachi amti, as grandmothers do.

Karnataka and Tamil Nadu · Varamahalakshmi, Rama Navami, every festival

Kosambari

Lentil salad: kosambari in Kannada, kosumalli in Tamil

  • 15 min + soaking
  • Serves 4
Ingredients and method

Ingredients

  • ½ cup moong dal, soaked 2 hours
  • 1 cucumber, finely chopped
  • 1 carrot, grated
  • 2 tbsp fresh coconut
  • Lemon juice, salt, coriander
  • Tempering: oil, mustard seeds, green chilli, hing

Method

  1. Drain the dal well.
  2. Mix with cucumber, carrot, coconut and coriander.
  3. Add salt and lemon just before serving.
  4. Pour the hot tempering on top.

Fresh, cooling and full of protein. A festival plate in Karnataka or Tamil Nadu is not complete without it.

Maharashtra and South India · Ganesh Chaturthi

Ukadiche Modak

Steamed modak: kozhukattai in Tamil, kadubu in Kannada, kudumulu in Telugu

  • 1 hour
  • Serves 15
Ingredients and method

Ingredients

  • 1 cup rice flour
  • 1 cup water, 1 tsp ghee, pinch of salt
  • 1 cup fresh grated coconut
  • ¾ cup jaggery
  • ¼ tsp cardamom

Method

  1. Cook coconut and jaggery until thick, add cardamom, and cool.
  2. Boil water with ghee and salt, stir in rice flour, cover and rest 5 minutes, then knead smooth.
  3. Flatten a ball, pinch pleats around the edge, fill, and close at the top.
  4. Steam for 12 minutes and serve with ghee.

Ganesha's favourite. Offer 21 modaks on Chaturthi.

All India · Onam, birthdays, Annaprashana

Semiya Payasam

Vermicelli kheer: shavige payasa in Kannada, semiya payasam in Tamil and Malayalam, seviyan kheer in the north

  • 25 min
  • Serves 4
Ingredients and method

Ingredients

  • ½ cup thin vermicelli
  • 1 litre milk
  • ½ cup sugar
  • 2 tbsp ghee
  • Cashews, raisins, cardamom, saffron

Method

  1. Fry cashews and raisins in ghee and set aside.
  2. Roast the vermicelli in the same ghee until golden.
  3. Add milk and simmer until soft, 10 minutes.
  4. Add sugar, cardamom and saffron, then the nuts.

For Annaprashana, cook plain rice in milk instead, and blend it smooth for the baby.

Tamil Nadu and Karnataka · Navaratri

Sundal

Chickpea stir-fry: sundal in Tamil, guggillu in Telugu, usli in Kannada

  • 20 min + soaking
  • Serves 4
Ingredients and method

Ingredients

  • 1 cup chickpeas or other beans, soaked overnight and boiled
  • 2 tbsp grated coconut
  • Oil, mustard seeds, urad dal, curry leaves, dried red chilli, hing
  • Salt

Method

  1. Heat oil and add mustard, urad dal, chilli, curry leaves and hing.
  2. Add the boiled chickpeas and salt.
  3. Toss in coconut and stir for a minute.

A different bean for each of the nine nights, given to visitors who come to see the dolls.

Karnataka · Sunday lunch, guests

Bisi Bele Bath

Hot lentil rice

  • 1 hour
  • Serves 4
Ingredients and method

Ingredients

  • ½ cup rice and ½ cup toor dal
  • 2 cups mixed vegetables (beans, carrot, peas, shallots)
  • Tamarind, lemon-sized ball, soaked
  • 3 tbsp bisi bele bath powder
  • Ghee, cashews, curry leaves, mustard

Method

  1. Pressure-cook rice and dal together until very soft.
  2. Cook vegetables with tamarind water, salt and the powder.
  3. Mix in the rice and dal, adding hot water for a flowing consistency.
  4. Finish with a ghee tempering of mustard, curry leaves and cashews.

Serve hot with boondi and papad. It thickens as it cools, so keep it loose.

All India · Any happy occasion

Rava Kesari and Sheera

Semolina sweet: kesari bath in Kannada, rava kesari in Tamil, sheera in Marathi, suji halwa in Hindi

  • 20 min
  • Serves 4
Ingredients and method

Ingredients

  • ½ cup fine semolina (rava)
  • 1½ cups water
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • 4 tbsp ghee
  • Saffron or a pinch of kesari colour, cardamom, cashews, raisins

Method

  1. Fry cashews and raisins in ghee, then roast the rava until fragrant.
  2. Add boiling water with saffron, stirring to avoid lumps.
  3. When thick, add sugar; it will loosen, then thicken again.
  4. Finish with ghee and cardamom.

With khara bath it becomes "chow chow bath", the classic Bengaluru breakfast.

Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Gujarat · Navaratri and Ekadashi fasts

Sabudana Khichdi

Sago with peanuts, for fasting days

  • 20 min + soaking
  • Serves 3
Ingredients and method

Ingredients

  • 1 cup sabudana (sago pearls)
  • ½ cup roasted peanuts, coarsely crushed
  • 1 potato, boiled and cubed
  • 1 green chilli, cumin seeds, curry leaves
  • Rock salt (sendha namak), a little sugar, lemon
  • 2 tbsp ghee, coriander

Method

  1. Rinse the sabudana until the water runs clear, then soak in just enough water to cover for 4 to 6 hours.
  2. Mix the soaked pearls with crushed peanuts, rock salt and a pinch of sugar.
  3. Heat ghee, add cumin, chilli and curry leaves, then the potato.
  4. Add the sabudana and stir gently on low heat until the pearls turn clear. Finish with lemon and coriander.

Fasting food in Maharashtra and Central India. If the pearls clump, they were soaked in too much water.

Kerala and Tamil Nadu · Onam sadya

Avial

Mixed vegetables in coconut and curd

  • 35 min
  • Serves 4
Ingredients and method

Ingredients

  • 3 cups mixed vegetables in finger-length pieces (carrot, beans, raw banana, drumstick, ash gourd)
  • ¾ cup fresh grated coconut
  • 2 green chillies, 1 tsp cumin
  • ½ cup thick curd, lightly beaten
  • 2 tbsp coconut oil, curry leaves
  • Turmeric, salt

Method

  1. Cook the vegetables with turmeric, salt and a little water until just tender.
  2. Grind coconut, chillies and cumin to a coarse paste with very little water.
  3. Stir the paste into the vegetables and cook for 3 minutes.
  4. Turn off the heat, stir in the curd, and finish with raw coconut oil and curry leaves.

Use any firm vegetables your local market sells: courgette, pumpkin and green beans all work.

Ritucharya

Eat With the Seasons

Ayurveda divides the year into six seasons. Months are for India; abroad, follow the weather where you live.

SeasonEat moreEat lessHabit
ShishiraLate winter · mid Jan – mid MarWarm soups, ghee, sesame, jaggery, root vegetablesCold drinks, raw salads at nightOil massage before bath
VasantaSpring · mid Mar – mid MayLight grains, millets, honey, bitter greens, gingerHeavy, oily and very sweet foodGentle exercise, early rising
GrishmaSummer · mid May – mid JulButtermilk, coconut water, cucumber, sweet fruitToo much spice, salt and sour foodRest at midday, stay cool
VarshaMonsoon · mid Jul – mid SepFreshly cooked warm meals, rice and dal, ginger, cuminLeafy greens, street food, overeatingBoiled water, light dinners
SharadAutumn · mid Sep – mid NovSweet, bitter and cooling foods, ghee, rice, amlaCurd at night, fried foodMoonlight walks on Sharad Purnima
HemantaEarly winter · mid Nov – mid JanNourishing food, nuts, milk, urad dal, sesameSkipping mealsStrength-building exercise

Read more in our article Ritucharya: Eating With the Seasons.

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